Maxwell Hemmens
live steam coal fired
Showmans Engines
Click on the image to 'zoom in' on any part
Click on the image to 'zoom in' on any part
"SHOWMAN’S ENGINE"
OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS
Your model is a precision-made item and, as such, must be correctly operated to ensure that it will give you satisfaction and enjoyment. We would therefore like you to read through the following instructions before you steam your engine. A working steam engine needs to be treated with respect and, provided you obey the following rules, you should have many happy steaming hours and your model will last a lifetime.
Ideally the engine should first be run-in slowly on an air line for approximately thirty minutes but, if you do not have access to a compressed-air line, careful steaming will give the correct results, although at first, because of the tight machine tolerances, the parts may appear stiff. Initially, the engine may need about 50 psi but this will reduce to about 20 psi within minutes as the engine settles down. The engine is designed to run at a maximum of 400 rpm and you should not exceed this speed unnecessarily.
Running in on air will allow all moving parts to bed-in evenly and will also allow you to make any final adjustment that may be necessary, to the eccentrics and valve timing, for even running. We have supplied you with a bottle of steam oil. This oil has been specially blended for the use with our steam engines and on no account should you use any oil other than high quality steam oil, either supplied by ourselves or a reputable oil company. Car engine oil is not suitable and, if used, will cause excess wear. Oil the bearings and moving parts and fill the mechanical lubricator with steam oil only.
To fill the boiler with water, remove the pressure gauge by unscrewing anticlockwise, taking care not to break the glass or lose the "O" ring seal; and also remove the blanking bolt (item 64a -see check valve on drawing 4 of 6). As you are pouring water into the boiler you may need to rotate the flywheel slowly to allow air from the boiler to escape through the exhaust.
In addition, to release any trapped air in the water gauge, unscrew the wheel tap (item 30g) situated just below the water gauge. Fill the boiler until the gauge shows 1/2 full. The water tank can be filled through the water filler pipe (item 40b - refer to drawing 1 of 6). It is important that you use only distilled water in the boiler. If ordinary tap water is used this will, in time, cause corrosion within the boiler. Remember to replace the pressure gauge.
Rotating the flywheel will activate the water pump (item 56) situated on the right hand side of the engine. The water valve (item 47), positioned on the rear of the homplate on the right hand side, is used to regulate the flow of water to the boiler or to return the surplus water to the water tank.
When you are steaming the engine, the water level in the water sight glass should be just more than half-full. The pump will take water from the water tank, situated between the homnplates, and deliver this
either to the boiler or return it to the water tank. The water valve (item 47) controls the direction of flow. When the water valve is closed, i.e. screwed fully clockwise, the pump will force the water along the pipe (item 64g - refer to drawing 4 of 6) and into the boiler through the check valve (item 64). When the water valve is in the fully open position, i.e. screwed fully anti clockwise, the water will take the easy route along the pipe (item 57) and return to the tank.
The pipe (item 40i) is the water feed from the bottom of the water tank to the pump. Therefore, you can regulate the flow of water to the boiler by the amount you open or close the water valve. The volume of water is pumped is dependent on the speed of the engine: the faster you run the engine the more water is pumped. The other point to watch is the amount of steam being used, as steam must be replaced by water. Do not, therefore, run the engine in an excessive manner, i.e. if the engine is idling and the safety valve (item 23a) is blowing steam continuously, you are wasting steam as the boiler pressure is too high and the pump of a slow running engine will not replenish the water used. The safety valve has been set to blow at 80 psi. If this situation occurs, you must either, close down the fire, if the water level is below the sight glass, or, if the water level is level with the bottom of the sight glass, close the water valve and then run the engine at 400 rpm, taking careful note of both the water level in the sight glass and the boiler pressure. If the water level is allowed to rise too high the cylinder will pump water from the boiler, or through the exhaust into the smokebox (front of engine); this water will run down the flue tubes, i.e. through the boiler, and put out the fire. This condition can sometimes occur during the initial start-up as pressure is building up in the boiler. A false reading of the water level is usually due to a back-pressure or trapped air. To overcome this condition, partially unscrew the wheel tap (item 30g - refer to drawing 4 of 6) by a small amount. This will release water and steam and will clear the glass for a correct reading. You will of course need to wear gloves (it’s very hot).
To achieve steaming conditions you obviously need to generate steam and, if you have never run a steam engine of this size before, it would be advisable to fire the engine on the first occasion using butane gas. It will help you to familiarise yourself with the running of the engine while having instant control of the fire. If you are running on coal, things can get a little hot if you have to put the fire out quickly. When you "know your engine" this situation should never occur.
One of the small GAZ camping stoves is ideal. You will have to remove the pan or kettle support around the burner. This unscrews easily and you will find that the burner will fit snugly up inside the boiler bottom having first, of course, removed the ashpan (item 68) and grate (item 68a - refer to drawing 3 of 6). We suggest you use two house bricks under each wheel to give you the height to allow the burner up inside the boiler. Take care to see that you do not burn the hornplate paintwork. You should generate about 50 psi of steam with butane gas. You may feel a little apprehensive
about the pressure in the boiler if this is your first time steaming. Do not worry too much, the boiler has been tested to 150 psi so let the pressure rise to 50 psi before you open the regulator valve (item 15) a small amount.
Move the reversing lever (item 31) to the fully forward position in the quadrant (item 31 b) and immediately you open the regulator valve (item 1 5h) rotate the flywheel by hand (this is only necessary with a new engine). You may find that there is a mush of steam and water up through the chimney and immediate "fall-out" of the steam pressure. The wet steam will die away as the engine "hots up" and dries out. The boiler pressure will build up, but try to maintain this at about 50 psi.
You should experiment controlling the water level. The lever on the right hand side of the engine (item 31 - refer to drawing 2 of 6) is the reversing lever for forward or reverse motion. You will notice that when you move this handle forwards and backwards the weightshafts and eccentrics change position. This link system is known as the "Stephenson" link motion.
If you are happy with the control of the engine, now is the time to use coal. Firing an engine on coal can be a problem on the first occasion. You will need a vacuum cleaner to help draw the fire. On the right hand side of the cylinder (refer to drawing 4 of 6) is the blower valve (item 69f). The purpose of this valve is to allow a certain amount of steam up the chimney to help draw the fire in the boiler, but first you need to get the fire working. Use dry wood and charcoal grilling nuts, obtainable from most camping shops. Soak the charcoal in paraffin for two hours before use. Open the vent on the ashpan by moving the ashpan lever (left hand side of the engine, item 681). Open the blower valve slightly, light the fire, half close the firedoor, hold the suction pipe of the vacuum cleaner horizontally to the chimney - taking careful note that you do not draw the fire too hard and put it out. Draw the fire slowly and add fuel as required. The height of the fire should be no more than 1/2" below the bottom of the firedoor. Remember to check the oil level in the mechanical lubricator and also to re-oil bearings and moving parts after approximately five minutes steaming.
The Showmans Engine
The Traction Engine came to life because as the Portable Engine developed, its weight became too great for it to remain ‘Portable" especially in hilly districts. History shows that in the 1850 period a kent farmer-Mr Thomas Aveling conceived the idea of using the same power unit of the "Portable" to provide traction, this was carried out successfully, closely followed by steerable front wheels which replaced the horse. The Engineer was now also the driver, who would place the machine wherever it was needed for threshing corn, sawing timber, pulling down trees with the winding drum, pile driving, direct haulage of ploughing tackle and lifting huge blocks of stone for harbour works. The day of the Traction Engine had arrived and remained in production until 1926.
During the years of production there was a choice of chain or gear drive, and the science of metallurgy made it possible to increase the working pressure greatly to 150 psi or more, this obtaining more power from the same weight engine. By the early 1900’s many of the early pioneers ha left the field and manufacture fell into the hands of larger establishments.
The John Burrell Engine will , haul a 14 stone man and has been built to give long service displaying the workmanship finish and design of the original. Every part not only carries out its duty but always has something in hand.
Lubricated with authentic steam oil as in years ago it even has the same aroma combined with an exhaust "Bark" in miniature Just as its forebears did.
The Engine includes features such as, Brake Drum Winding Drum, with stainless steel winding cable Tow bar attachment, Mechanical lubricator, Canopy
and is available in a choice of colours to suit the customers requirements
Fired by the traditional method of coal, the model displays the true character and visual appeal of the great old Agricultural machines. It is equipped like the old timers with chain steering, operating safety
valve, regulator, reversing lever and two speed gears, pressure gauge and water level indicator. The boiler
is constructed in copper and tested to 150 psi. A signed test certificate and guarantee is provide showing the boiler number. The engine has a
single cylinder with slide valve, Stephensons link reversing gear and valve parts. The water tank is
bolted between the homplates.
As it became obvious that the Road loco or Traction Engine could haul enormous loads, haulage contractors and Fair ground operators called for even larger engines which would not only do the work required but also make an attractive mobile advertisement area for their owners -thus the Road Showman’s Locomotive came into being.
These magnificent machines often weighed up to 20 tons, and were to be seen in the 1800’s and onwards hauling a train of wagons of over
30 tons containing a complete Fair & Zoo, or sometimes transporting the enormous generators for the hydro electric projects then in
progress. The canopy protected the driver on these long hauls, but also provided an ideal mounting for the electric light display which
Fair ground operators needed. The fitted Dynamo supplied power for roundabouts, side shows, and travelling cinemas of those days.
The Showman’s Locomotives were robust and beautiful, with lines which always appealed. Their proud owners lavished great care and attention on them, with brass and steelwork highly polished. They well deserved the names their makers awarded - "Empress," "King George," "Her Majesty," and "Supreme" are examples. The final Burrell was built in 1930. Our working model is built with the same care and detail as the original. Apart from the natural pleasure of owning and driving such an exclusive model, it would certainly set the tone in the Lounge or even the most select Boardroom.
The Showmans engine is built to 1" scale as has a finished size of approximately 26 inches in length. It will produce enough power to haul a 14 stone (200lbs) man
The Showmans engine is hand built in the uk and comes with a 3 year guarantee against defects in materials or workmanship.
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